Coast and Castles Route                                  July 2007

 

200 miles from Edinburgh to Newcastle (although we provided our own variation by leaving the route at Cresswell and returning direct to Stamfordham) ridden over 4 days by 5 Velos with support from logistics. A slightly more ambitious programme devised using the experience gained from last year's C2C ride that called for more time in the saddle but still allowed plenty of opportunity to sample local hospitality.

 

Bike taxi from Velo HQ to the centre of Edinburgh. Eventually underway after unloading bikes, luggage and personal contents. Up The Mound and after a short distance join the network of off road paths and quiet roads that that take the route out of Edinburgh. The former railway tunnel under Arthur's Seat was a highlight, gradually increasing speed whilst freewheeling towards the exit portal where, after a photo stop, we discovered our first puncture. Onward for lunch in Dalkeith and then the climb up the Moorfoot Hills which is not too severe but was made slightly worrying by the "Road Ahead Closed" signs at the start. A couple of Northbound riders assured us that we'd get through OK and a footbridge had indeed been provided to replace the removed road bridge. The long downhill to Innerleithen for our first nights stop and some late afternoon Deuchars IPA (see Mr Curtis' excellent piece in the publications section for full details of this Sports Drink) at the Traquair Arms Hotel. This was followed by some early evening and then late evening Deuchars IPA at the same venue.

 

Day 2

The persistently wet weather (well it was the "summer" of 2007) did it's best to dampen our spirits today and failed.This ride takes in some excellent and varied scenary. We had already had the cityscape and moorland of day 1 and we knew that the Northumberland coast was to come on days 3 and 4, but the valley of the River Tweed did not disappoint today, nor did crossing it on the former railway viaduct at Tweedsbank which was more than enough to get the railway buffs amongst us foaming at the mouth. On for elevenses at Papa Jacks in the shadow of Melrose Abbey and lunch at the very friendly Caroline's Coffee Shop in Kelso. Into England at Norham only to leave it again via the Union Suspension Bridge at Horncliffe after a visit to the honey farm.  Just time for another puncture before arriving at the Ravensholme Hotel, Berwick, where bikes also go upstairs to bed. Evening sports drinks taken at Foxton's and The Barrels.

Balance tests in the wet but glorious Tweed Valley

The fifth man in a particularly right wing mood on his return to England at Norham

A landmark

 

The Ravensholme Hotel operates a well recommended Indian restaurant but this fact will be of little comfort to lovers of the traditional English breakfast, who are likely to be sorely disappointed. First refreshment call of the day therefore had to include bacon sandwiches which were located and consumed at the Well House Coffee Shop in Belford, but not before enjoying some of the best coastal scenary that Northumberland has to offer from the cliff tops at Spittal and Cocklawburn and on the new section of route through Goswick. Suitably refreshed and with cholesterol levels topped up we glide onwards enjoying majestic views of Bamburgh castle then a long inland section before lunch at Grey's Inn, Embleton. Home must be on the radar screen now as Wylam Beer is sold here. More coastal path South of Howick takes us through a beautiful area not easily accessible by car but poor signage in Alnmouth meant that we missed the new coastal route to Warkworth. As if to match our mood at having to climb up through Bilton the heavens opened with the sort of downpour that has you wet through before you can get the waterproofs on, so a slightly moist arrival at The Harbour Guest House, Amble for that night's lodge. Evening refreshments taken at The Mason's Arms, Warkworth, custard available.

 

If you ever stay at The Harbour Guest House, Amble do not refuse the full cooked breakfast as;

1) It makes up for the previous day's disappointment,

2) The owner clearly enjoys serving it and

3) The rest of the ride is fairly flat so you won't be hampered too much by the extra ballast.

Route signage through Amble is a bit sparse but we managed to find our way South via the sweeping crescent of Druridge Bay. From Cresswell we veered away from the official route and travelled via Ellington, Longhirst, Morpeth, Ogle and Milbourne to arrive back at Velo HQ in time for a Sunday lunchtime top-up.

Overall impression is of a very enjoyable trip on a well signed route with some excellent hospitality.

 

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